Asagi
General Description
Asagi’ is the term applied to a fully reticulated koi that exhibits a blue colour above its lateral line, and accented by red markings on its underside. Reticulation refers to scales that form a net-like appearance. Thus, an asagi exhibits a bluish net pattern all over the top portion of its body. This reticulation is created by the asagi’s blue scales which are surrounded by white edges.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The Asagi’s body must be blue in colour above the lateral line. The blue colour must be of even shade and hue within a single koi, although it may vary from one koi to another. Depending on the bloodline of the koi, the blue colour may be dark (almost blue-gray) or light (very light blue) in appearance. Many hobbyists prefer the lighter shade of blue.
Aside from the blue colour of the asagi above its lateral line, it must have red coloration on the underside of the its body, just below the lateral line. This red colour may also appear on all fins, the gill covers, and mouth.
Pattern
The most important aspect of judging asagi koi is the quality of the reticulation over its blue body. The reticulation effect comes from the lighter colour of the edge of each blue scale. If the scales are lined up in straight rows, they exhibit a perfect netting effect that looks very beautiful. Asagi koi with perfect reticulation are therefore desirable, while those with uneven or interrupted reticulation are held in much lower esteem.
The red colorations of an asagi must provide a balanced accent to the total package of the koi. A clean and unblemished head is also a sought-after trait of an asagi.
Doitsu
General Description
‘Doitsu’ is the term applied to a koi that either: 1) has no scales at all; or 2) has scales only along the dorsal fin and maybe along the lateral line as well. Doitsu came about from the cross-breeding of Japanese koi with the German ‘leather’ carp, which doesn’t have scales. As such, almost all koi breeds have their own ‘doitsu’ version.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
All colour criteria pertaining to a non-doitsu (scaled) breed are applicable to the doitsu version.
Pattern
All pattern criteria pertaining to a non-doitsu (scaled) breed are applicable to the doitsu version.
Goshiki
General Description
‘Goshiki’ is the term applied to a koi that has a white base colour with black-and-blue reticulation, overlaid by Kohaku-like red patterns. Reticulation refers to scales that form a net-like appearance.
The word ‘goshiki’ translates to ‘five colours.’ The original goshiki was developed from the sanke and asagi. Thus, the ‘five colours’ of the goshiki are the red, black, and white of the sanke and the gray and blue of the asagi.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The shiro (white) base colour of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky underneath the black-and-blue reticulation of the scales.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-coloured throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the ‘kiwa’) must be very defined, or as they say, ‘sharp as a razor.’ The hi colour may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi. The red markings must not be blemished by any black spots.
Pattern
The red markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only.
The reticulation effect on the white base colour of the goshiki must exhibit a perfect netting effect that is visibly sharp and nicely distributed. Goshiki koi with perfect reticulation on snow-white body are very desirable. A clean and unblemished head is also a sought-after trait of a goshiki.
Hikari Moyo
General Decsription
‘Hikari Moyo’ is the term applied to a metallic koi with more than one colour, with the exception of metallic showa and metallic utsuri (both of which are classified as Hikari Utsuri). The term ‘hikari’ translates to ‘metallic.’ The hikari moyo koi class includes the Platinum Kohaku, the Kikusui (platinum Kohaku with wavy red lines on both sides), the Yamabuki Hariwake (platinum koi overlaid by light yellow markings), the Orenji Hariwake (platinum koi overlaid by orange markings), the Gin Bekko (metallic Bekko), and the Yamato Nishiki (metallic sanke).
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The colour of a hikari moyo koi must be unblemished, uniform, dense, and shiny. Lustre of the skin is an important consideration for this koi type.
Pattern
The pattern criteria for the non-metallic equivalent of a hikari moyo are applicable to this koi type. In addition, lustre of the skin and fins (especially the pectoral fins) is important.
Hikarimuji
General Description
‘Hikari Mujimono’, or simply ‘Hikarimuji’, is the term applied to a metallic koi of single colour. The term ‘hikari’ translates to ‘metallic.’ Examples of hikarimuji koi are the platinum ogon or purachina, the yamabuki ogon (light yellow), and the orenji ogon (orange).
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The colour of a hikarimuji must be unblemished, uniform, dense, and shiny. Lustre of the skin is an important consideration for this koi type.
Pattern
In the absence of patterns on a hikarimuji koi, one simply has to ensure that the head is very clear, i.e., unblemished by black spots and other imperfections. The body, on the other hand, must be of uniform colour and also unblemished. As mentioned earlier, lustre of the scales and fins (especially the pectoral fins) is important.
Hikari Utsuri
General description
‘Hikari Utsuri’ is the term applied to the metallic version of the Showa and Utsuri. The term ‘hikari’ translates to ‘metallic.’ This koi class includes the Kin Showa (metallic Showa with a golden shine), the Gin Showa (metallic Showa with a silver shine), the Gin Shiro (metallic Shiro Utsuri), the Kin Ki Utsuri (metallic Ki Utsuri), and the Kin Hi Utsuri (metallic Hi Utsuri).
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The colour of a hikari utsuri koi must be unblemished, uniform, dense, and shiny. Lustre of the skin is an important consideration for this koi type.
Pattern
The pattern criteria for Showa and Utsuri are applicable to Hikari Utsuri. In addition, lustre of the skin and fins (especially the pectoral fins) is important.
Kawarimono
General Description
‘Kawarigoi’ or ‘Kawarimono’ is the term applied to a koi that can not be classified into any of the standard koi types. Since this is a ‘catch-all’ category, a lot of established koi varieties fall under it.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
Due to the large number of koi varieties under the category of ‘Kawarigoi’, this page can not describe the colour criteria specific to each of them. However, the colour criteria discussed in other pages for mainstream koi varieties generally apply to kawarigoi as well. Thus, colours must be deep and solid, with no signs of fading, blurring, spotting, or unwanted tinting anywhere. The shade, hue, and quality of the colours must be consistent throughout the koi.
Pattern
Due to the large number of koi varieties under the category of ‘Kawarigoi’, this page can not describe the pattern criteria specific to each of them. However, the pattern criteria discussed in other pages for mainstream koi varieties generally apply to kawarigoi with pattern markings as well. For example, markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. As in any other koi, the markings on a kawarigoi must enhance the total beauty package of the koi.
Kin Gin Rin
General Description
‘Kin Gin Rin’ is the term applied to a koi whose scales exhibit a sparkling effect. ‘Kin gin rin’ translates to ‘gold and silver scales’. A koi with only shining silver scales is referred to as ‘ginrin’, while one with only shining golden scales is referred to as ‘kinrin’. All varieties of koi can have sparkling scales, so each koi variety has kinginrin variants or specimens.
A chemical deposit in the scales of the koi make them ‘sparkle.’ They were first discovered in 1929 and was called ‘gingoke’ by Esaburo Hochino.
There are four types Kin Gin Rin scales. Pearl Gin Rin has a sparkle deposit in the centre of each scale like a pearl. Diamond Gin Rin or Hiroshima Gin Rin looks like brushed aluminium sparkle. Beta-Gin is where the whole scale sparkles and is the most valued type. Kado-Gin has only the aft edge of each scale covered with this sparkling deposit.”
Some experts still debate on whether kinginrin scales add beauty to a koi or lessen it. Indeed, in some koi the kinginrin scalation diminishes some of its strong points such as its colour strength. On the other hand, excellent kinginrin scalation can make an otherwise simply average koi stunningly beautiful. In the final analysis therefore, one can say that it really depends on how the sparkling scalation of a kinginrin specimen contributes to the total package of the koi.
A kin gin rin koi is better appreciated under sunlight.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The colour criteria used in judging non-kinginrin counterparts of kinginrin koi apply. In addition, the glitter or sparkle of the kinginrin scales must be very intense. The kinginrin scales must likewise be evenly and generously distributed on the back of the koi.
Pattern
The pattern criteria used in judging non-kinginrin counterparts of kinginrin koi apply.
Kohaku
General Description
‘Kohaku’ is the term applied to a koi that has a white body with red markings. Kohaku is the first koi breed to be established by the Japanese, with breed stability being achieved in the 1890′s.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The shiro (white) base colour of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky. The shiro must not exhibit any yellowish tint.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-coloured throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the ‘kiwa’) must be very defined, or as they say, ‘sharp as a razor.’
The hi colour may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi. Different koi exhibit different hues, from a deep persimmon orange to dark, purplish red. This entire range is acceptable, although judges invariably have their own preferences.
Pattern
The red markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. An equal distribution of shiro and hi is preferred, so in general a koi heavily marked with red or predominantly white in colour is not desired. Red spots below the lateral line are not desired, and so are red marks that extend into the tail or the dorsal fin.
The pattern may be continuous or ‘stepped’, but the over-all effect of white and red balancing each other should be the ultimate consideration. Many people prefer stepped koi and understandably so, since this pattern ensures red and white alternating with each other. Nonetheless, there have been single-stepped (also known as ‘ohm Oyo’) koi that have won championships for their ‘total package’ elegance.
A white area separating the tail and the red marking nearest the tail is known as a tail stop, and is considered desirable. A red mark on the lips of a koi (also known as ‘kuchibeni’) is a ‘plus’ if it enhances the over-all package of the koi.
A good kohaku has a pattern on the head. The head pattern must extend slightly beyond the eyes but should not reach the nose or lips, leaving a white area in the front end of the head. A fully red head (referred to as ‘menkaburi’) that makes the koi look ‘hooded’ is considered negative. Nonetheless, some koi look good despite having it, so don’t let it prevent you from buying a koi that you like.
A round patch of red on the head is considered nice. If this red patch is the only marking on a white koi, then the koi is called a ‘tancho kohaku’, a highly-prized koi variety among the Japanese since it looks like their national bird. If there are other markings on the body of the koi, then the round head patch makes it a ‘maruten’ kohaku.
Koromo
General Description
‘Koromo’, which translates to ‘robed’, is the term applied to a koi that has a white base colour, overlaid by red patterns with reticulation. Reticulation refers to scales that form a net-like appearance. In the case of Koromo, these net-like patterns are created by the blue edges of the scales over the red markings. Koromo is basically a cross between Kohaku and Asagi.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The shiro (white) base colour of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky. The shiro must not exhibit any yellowish tint.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-coloured throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the ‘kiwa’) must be very defined, or as they say, ‘sharp as a razor.’ The hi colour may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi.
Pattern
The red markings on the body must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. An equal distribution of shiro and hi is preferred, so in general a koi heavily marked with red or predominantly white in colour is not desired.
The reticulation effect on the red markings comes from the dark blue colour of the edge of each red scale. If the scales are lined up in straight rows, they exhibit a perfect netting effect that looks very beautiful. Koromo koi with perfect reticulation on the red markings are therefore desirable.
A clean and unblemished head is also a sought-after trait of a koromo.
Kujaku
General Description
‘Kujaku’ is the term applied to a metallic koi with full reticulation or ‘netting’ effect on its back. The term ‘kujaku’ translates to ‘peacock.’ It was developed by Mr. Nishi Hirasawa of Hiranishi Fish Farms in the early 1960′s by crossing the Goshiki with the Hikarimuji.
The Kujaku has a metallic white base colour overlaid by metallic red, orange, or yellow markings, creating a striking effect. Note that in a Kujaku, both the base colour and the markings are reticulated. Reticulation refers to scales that form a net-like appearance. Thus, a kujaku exhibits this net pattern all over its body, unlike Koromo (which has reticulation only on its markings) or Goshiki (which has reticulation only in its base colour).
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The most important aspect of appreciating a Kujaku is the sheen and lustre of its metallic skin. The skin must be shiny, allowing the koi to stand out on the surface of the water. The overlay pattern of the Kujaku is referred to as its Beni, which means ‘red.’ However, this overlay pattern or ‘beni’ doesn’t have to be ‘red’ in a kujaku – it may also be of colour gold, yellow, or orange. The beni of a Kujaku must be sharp, deep, and of uniform intensity, but must let the net pattern show through clearly from underneath.
Pattern
The reticulation on the back of a Kujaku koi must exhibit a perfect ‘net’ effect. The net pattern must be visibly sharp and evenly aligned, with minimal interruptions or blurry areas.
The overlay pattern of the Kujaku must be artistically balanced. This means that they must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. The edges of the markings must be sharp. The head of a Kujaku must not look crowded, and is in fact preferred to be clean and unblemished. The fins of a Kujaku must likewise be clean.
Kumonryu
General Description
‘Kumonryu’ is the term applied to a doitsu koi with a ‘killer whale’ pattern, i.e., a black body with white markings. The term ‘kumonryu’ translates to ‘nine-crested dragon.” Kumonryu koi are unique in the sense that their sumi (black colour) is unstable, allowing them to change their black-and-white patterns even after they have matured. Cases such as when a totally black kumonryu has transformed into a totally white one have even been reported. As such, they are also described as koi that are ‘forever tategoi.’ The kumonryu is a relatively new koi variety, acquiring a category of its own in the All Japan show only in 1994.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The black and white colours of a kumonryu must be deep and solid. ‘Jet-black’ and ‘snow-white’ are common descriptions of how the black and white colours of a kumonryu must appear, respectively.
Pattern
The kumonryu is a doitsu koi, so it may or may not have mirror scales along its dorsal and lateral lines. If it does, the mirror scales must be continuous and nicely aligned. If it doesn’t have mirror scales, then it must have no scales at all.
Because of the non-permanence of the sumi of a kumonryu, its pattern must not be a basis for its purchase. The depth and quality of the sumi and the body conformation of the koi must be given much more importance. Many koi hobbyists have bought kumonryu koi based on the black-and-white patterns they saw at the time of buying, only to be disappointed several weeks later to see their koi transform into a less striking specimen.
Showa Sanshoku
General Description
‘Showa Sanshoku’, or ‘showa’ is the term applied to a koi that has a black body with red and white markings. This definition is confusing to beginners, since modern showa clearly shows that it also has a white body with red and black markings, just like a sanke. This definition came from the early history of showa. When this breed emerged and was established, it was predominantly black. At that time, most breeders keep this breed for its ‘blackness.’ Nowadays, hobbyists prefer a more balanced mix of red, white, and black.
The difference between a sanke and a showa is in the appearance of the sumi markings. Sanke sumi tend to be in the form of spots generally confined to the body above the lateral line, while showa sumi appear to be relatively larger streaks that ‘wrap’ around the body (going below the lateral line) as well as extend into the head. Showa as a koi breed was established around 1920, during the Showa Emperor Era.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour The shiro (white) base colour of the body must be unblemished, thick, snowy, and even milky. The shiro must not exhibit any yellowish tint.
The hi (red) markings on the white body must be solid, deep, and evenly-coloured throughout the entire body. The edges of these markings (also known as the ‘kiwa’) must be very defined, or as they say, ‘sharp as a razor.’
The hi colour may vary from koi to koi, but it should be of uniform hue within an individual koi. Different koi exhibit different hues, from a deep persimmon orange to dark, purplish red. This entire range is acceptable, although judges invariably have their own preferences.
The sumi (black) markings of a Showa must be deep, solid, and shiny lacquer-black. The shape of every sumi marking must be clearly defined, with its kiwa or edges as sharp as possible. Undeveloped sumi may appear mottled dark blue or gray instead of solid black. This is not bad for a young koi, since sumi actually develops as the koi grows older. In fact, spotting a potential champion at a young age involves good anticipation of how well the sumi will develop in the next few years.
Pattern
The red and black markings on the white body must be artistically balanced. This means that a certain colour must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. A good example of excellent showa pattern is if the black, red, and white colours are interspersed in a ‘checkerboard’ pattern.
The red-over-white pattern may be continuous or ‘stepped’, but the over-all effect of white and red balancing each other should be the ultimate consideration. Many people prefer stepped koi and understandably so, since this pattern ensures red and white alternating with each other. Showa with a large percentage of its body covered by ‘hi’ with very little shiro is known as ‘hi showa’. Hi showa is less desired, since the predominantly red body makes it look heavy.
A white area separating the tail and the red marking nearest the tail is known as a tail stop, and is considered desirable. A red mark on the lips of a koi (also known as ‘kuchibeni’) is a ‘plus’ if it enhances the over-all package of the koi.
A good showa must have all three colours on its head. Lightning-shaped sumi that streaks across the head and divides it into two is desirable. This sumi head marking is known as a ‘menware.’ A V-shaped sumi pattern on the shoulder of a showa is also desired. It used to be that judges look for both a menware and this V-shaped shoulder sumi in a showa, but nowadays the presence of only one of these is acceptable.
If a round red patch on the head is the only red marking on the showa, then the koi is called a ‘tancho showa’, a highly-prized koi variety among the Japanese since it looks like their national bird. If there are other red markings on the body of the koi, then the round head patch makes it a ‘maruten’ showa.
The sumi of a showa must be distributed in the koi body such that they collectively add balance to the koi. Their presence should enhance the ‘kohaku pattern’ and not degrade it. Old-style showa koi are heavily endowed with sumi. Modern showa (also known as ‘kindai showa’) exhibit a sparser distribution of sumi, but these should be clearly defined and solid black nonetheless.
The base of the pectoral fins of a showa must be black. This black base area of pectoral fins is known as ‘motoguro.’ The more defined and confined to the base it is, the better.
Shusui
General Description
‘Shusui’ is the term applied to the doitsu version of Asagi. The term ‘shusui’ translates to ‘autumn water.’
Just like an asagi, the top half of the body of a shusui is also light bluish in colour, while its undersides exhibit red or orange markings. Being a doitsu though, the shusui can not exhibit a netting effect like an asagi, since it has no scales to show reticulation. Instead, an important feature of a shusui is its line of mirror scales running along its spine from the back of the head to its tail.
‘Hi Shusui’ refers to a shusui koi whose blue body is almost completely covered with red coloration. A hi shusui that exhibits blue mirror scales on both lateral lines is known as ‘hana shusui.’
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The Shusui’s body must be blue in colour above the lateral line. The blue colour must be of even shade and hue within a single koi, although it may vary from one koi to another.
Aside from the blue colour of the shusui above its lateral line, it must have red coloration on the underside of the its body, just below the lateral line. This red colour may also appear on all fins, the gill covers, and mouth.
Pattern
The mirror scales of a shusui along its back must be in a straight row with no gaps in between from the back of the head to its tail. The head of a shusui must be clean, i.e., it must not exhibit any imperfections or small black spots.
Tancho
General Description
‘Tancho’ is the term applied to a Kohaku, Sanke, or Showa whose only red marking is a round patch of red on the head. Tancho koi are highly-prized among hobbyists, especially the Japanese, because they resemble Japan’s flag and national bird. No other red marking must appear anywhere else. The red patch must be as round as possible, and should not reach the shoulder nor the nose of the fish.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
All colour criteria applicable to non-Tancho Kohaku, Sanke, or Showa are applicable to the Tancho type.
Pattern
All pattern criteria applicable to non-Tancho Kohaku, Sanke, or Showa are applicable to the Tancho type with the addition of one rule: no other red marking must appear on the koi except for the round patch on the Tancho’s head. The head patch must be as round as possible. It must also be centred between the eyes, and must not extend to the nose or to the shoulder of the koi.
Utsuri
General Description
‘Utsuri’ is the term applied to a koi that has a single base colour of white (shiro utsuri), or red (hi utsuri), or yellow (ki utsuri). Over this base colour are black markings that ‘wrap’ around the body (going below the lateral line) as well as extend into the head. Utsuri is to showa as bekko is to sanke. Thus, all criteria that apply to showa sumi quality and pattern are applicable to utsuri sumi. Utsuri was established around 1925.
Appreciation Criteria
Colour
The base colour (whether shiro, hi, or ki) of the body must be unblemished, thick, rich, and of uniform hue and quality. The base colour must not exhibit any sign of tint of a different colour.
The sumi (black) markings of an utsuri must be deep, solid, and shiny lacquer-black. The shape of every sumi marking must be clearly defined, with its kiwa or edges as sharp as possible. Undeveloped sumi may appear mottled dark blue or gray instead of solid black. This is not bad for a young koi, since sumi actually develops as the koi grows older. In fact, spotting a potential champion at a young age involves good anticipation of how well the sumi will develop in the next few years.
Pattern
The base colour and black markings must be artistically balanced. This means that a certain colour must not be confined to one side or one end of the koi only. A good example of excellent utsuri pattern is if the black and base colours are interspersed in a ‘checkerboard’ pattern.
A good utsuri must have both colours on its head. Lightning-shaped sumi that streaks across the head and divides it into two is desirable. This sumi head marking is known as a ‘menware.’ A V-shaped sumi pattern on the shoulder of an utsuri is also desired. It used to be that judges look for both a menware and this V-shaped shoulder sumi in an utsuri, but nowadays the presence of only one of these is acceptable.
The base of the pectoral fins of an utsuri must be black. This black base area of pectoral fins is known as ‘motoguro.’ The more defined and confined to the base it is, the better.
